Car model and year:
2007 ML350 186k Miles
Had 56 DTCs and a leaking crankshaft seal
Benz scanner to use:
Went through the DTCs and most were typical BS transient ones or very old ones, I deleted them with my scan tool (Launch X431 ProS Mini), and only a SRS one returned in 200 miles of driving.
What I tried to do:
attempted to replace the OEM type seal that was flimsy and that didn’t lend itself to insertion by conventional means (tapping it in and home with a soft-faced dead blow hammer) without buggering it up (as he did). But at times maybe I bury the facts under superfluous information.
Went to start the seal w/ a hammer, then used the factory crank bolt, a nut, and a BIG washer against the seal to press it in.
Please follow all the instructions:
Understand that the bolt calls for a high tightening torque.
Please follow all the instructions to a t. If you do not, your engine will be damaged.
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #1.pdf
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #2a.pdf
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #2.pdf
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #3.pdf
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #3a.pdf
R&I Crankshaft Pulley 272 Eng. #4.pdf
Finally! The leak is stopped!
The proper harmonic balancer holding tool was purchased and used for bolt/pulley removal.
To remove the bolt, a socket with a 1/2″ breaker bar and a 5ft pipe was used to loosen bolt. (I was amazed the 1/2″ didn’t break)
The illustration in my post was the method he used to insert the seal once it was started using the bolt and washer to suck it in.
A torque wrench was used to achieve 200ft/lb, and an angle gauge between the breaker bar and the socket was used for the final torque (Though 350ft/lb +/- 50 using
a 5ft extension pipe and a spring scale hooked to the end of the breaker bar and pulled to 70 pounds on the scale should be adequate with Blue Locktite on the threads
as was originally found on he threads was found elsewhere as an ascetical gouge.)
That text should have read 150ft/lb, not 200ft/lb (the 150ft/lb he used is close to 147ft/lb or 200mn– Actually 150 ft/lb is 202nm actually) plus 90deg w/ Blue Locktite
The “200” came from what he told me and I should have gotten the units (nm) right by typed ft/lb from habit.
The 1/2″ torque wrench I loaned him only goes to 150ft/lb, and he set it to 150. there is tolerance with everything and 2.2nm off is no big deal, especially given torque wrenches have tolerances
and mine has been well treated but not calibrated since new.
The leak is stopped.
Hope it helps!